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( j! a* o; @- _/ X: b/ x* c夏天啦……亲,吃蝉吗?
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浙江丽水人的餐桌上,蝉是一道不可少的美味。当地小饭店里吃蝉的人比吃小龙虾的多
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# l7 ~1 w5 j" x) _+ I* `, m; b) [吃蝉要先掐去头尾、四肢,仅留肚子上的一小块肉。捕蝉人晚上抓好蝉后,连夜回家处理好蝉,等酒店打电话过来收购,一个蝉卖8毛钱。
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你抓过蝉吗?你敢吃蝉吗?来跟随摄影记者Yang Hui的镜头,看看这道“大餐”诞生的过程吧
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2 ~, Y: d; M: I▲天渐黑后,李师傅开始拿手电筒去抓知了# h2 B! Z+ [2 D1 i
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▲李师傅在找知了5 Z0 L' G. A( N
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( S3 z8 u% W A8 Y▲晚上,一只在树上的知了
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1 d/ x. e* [7 b( b, S▲努力地砸树,让知了掉下来3 {; s+ S( v7 J9 U6 C) R& @+ g
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0 ?# G C4 S9 B; ]▲因为已经到季末了,砸了几棵树收获并不多2 S5 {) j, D" p( [" r# M- y! N
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▲厨师在油炸知了# N. V0 i5 y/ i9 h
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▲一盘油炸的知了上桌
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5 [! v0 p _0 f' _0 b5 r▲摆在店里处理好的知了,把知了的头摘除了
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: J5 D0 D1 c K▲当地的超市把知了进行塑封后,当成零食卖,非常热销2 ^1 a# q0 C6 ~; Q- o3 N
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( Q5 P% c& F, B C$ P7 A% e$ L" E& KCatching and cooking Lishui’s fave summertime menu item: the cicada 6 _; V1 g# s# G! `8 q; b* V' ]
( Z% }4 M6 T$ c- L) {; qSummertime means cicadas chirping throughout day and night. For some people, it can be annoying. However, for others, especially in Lishui, Zhejiang Province, the cicada is a popular snack and meal.; ]: s+ @4 H# b- E/ G; F0 T
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Lishui restaurants take more orders for cicadas than the usual seasonal favorite, crawfish. And the bug must similarly be stripped down: to eat a cicada, its head, tail and legs should be removed first, leaving only the abdomen.
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" h7 s6 j4 h! N9 Q8 }' l) FJiang Yongchun has been in the cicada wholesale business for years and says the rural areas of Lishui have long favored eating the insect./ e& a; t+ J8 J% l4 r
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"By the end of the 1980s, restaurants started to serve cicadas as dishes," Jiang said. Meals and snacks can be found on local menus from June to late September.
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9 s7 f. b4 {5 a- GJiang is among seven or eight wholesalers in Lishui. He said they sell roughly 6,000 kilograms to 7,500 kilograms per day, with about 200 cicadas in a kilogram. It's estimated that in some 80 summer days, Lishui citizens consume over 100 million cicadas.5 F' H" k; e( {' Y
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I( Z6 J* C* w8 Q* \& |. e( nCicada hunters often catch their prey after 7 pm, usually on phoenix trees, where they rest. The Global Times followed one such hunter, surnamed Li, catching them.
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The primary piece of kit is a big hammer. Hit the trunk with the hammer, and lots of cicadas fall to the ground.
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5 [4 y4 Z0 Q! p$ CDuring peak season, several thousand cicadas can be caught every night. However, Li didn't harvest much this time. He told the Global Times that he thinks the season for cicadas is almost over.
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{; R9 t. V# o6 zWith the growth in consumption and popularity of cicadas, some of the menu offerings in Lishui are now imported from Quzhou, in Zhejiang Province and even from Jiangxi Province.
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The bugs also fetch a good price at the table, at around 0.8 yuan ($0.12) each. However, the high cost isn't stopping fanatical cicada lovers.
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图:Yang Hui. q; m. U4 ~% Q- ` K: \
文:Global Times2 h- t* s7 @1 X3 f# _1 P: R
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